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Portfolio · Textile

Dhaka Muslin.

One of the world's highest-value textile categories — and one of the trickiest to source from Bangladesh without ending up with the wrong thread count, the wrong workshop, or no shipment at all. We know which revival weavers can actually deliver.

The sourcing reality

High-value, hard to source. Until you know who actually delivers.

Dhaka muslin is the most expensive textile category Bangladesh exports — and one of the most opaque to source from outside the country. Most foreign buyers end up dealing with intermediaries quoting thread counts they can't verify, against samples from workshops that can't deliver the same quality at volume. The result, more often than anyone admits, is a container of muslin that doesn't match the spec promised, on a timeline that drifted by months, with no realistic recourse.

The bottleneck isn't the cotton. It's knowing which of the small number of revival workshops can consistently deliver at the count agreed, in the volume agreed, on the timeline promised. We've spent years building those relationships. Our Dhaka team has walked every karkhana we work with, watched the warp being prepared, sat through the negotiations, and inspected the production. Every shipment we send to a buyer is documented to its originating weaver and independently certified on thread count.

"The bottleneck in muslin sourcing isn't the cotton. It's knowing which workshops can deliver the count claimed. That knowledge takes years to build."

The heritage context matters, because it tells you why this is hard. Dhaka muslin's reputation goes back two thousand years — Roman patricians paid in gold for it; Mughal emperors reserved the finest counts for the imperial court; European aristocrats wore it in the eighteenth century at status equivalent to diamonds today. The colonial industrialisation of the nineteenth century effectively killed the craft, and by 1900 the thread count had fallen from 1,200 to nothing. A quiet revival has been underway for the last decade — botanists recovering the original phuti karpas cotton, master weavers training a new generation — but the workshops actually producing it are few, scattered, and easy to misidentify.

We work with the workshops that have survived the revival cycle and proved they can deliver. Our buyers include couture houses, museum-grade textile suppliers, and ceremonial garment makers in Europe and North America. Every shipment is documented to the weaver, the karkhana and the count — and pre-inspected by NS staff in Dhaka before release.

The Process

From riverbank cotton to finished cloth.

Cultivation

Phuti karpas cotton is grown on the silt banks of the Meghna river — a regional micro-climate that produces the long, fine staple required for ultra-high thread counts.

Hand-spinning

Spun on the takli or charkha by spinners working in pre-dawn humidity — when the fibre is at its most pliable. A single sari requires hundreds of hours.

Weaving

Woven on traditional pit looms by master weavers, often in the same families that wove muslin for the Mughal court. Counts of 800 – 1,200 are standard; 1,500+ is achievable for special commissions.

Finishing

Washed in soft river water, sun-dried, finished by hand. Each cloth is inspected, documented, and tagged with provenance before being prepared for shipment.

What we deliver

Specifications & commercial terms.

Thread count
800 – 1,200 standard · up to 1,500 by commission
Weave width
42" – 48" standard · custom widths available
Finish options
Natural · bleached · pre-dyed in natural pigments
Documentation
Weaver name · workshop · thread count · provenance certificate
Typical applications
Couture · luxury bedding · religious garments · museum-grade textiles
Lead time & logistics
10 – 16 weeks · DDP shipping to UK, EU, North America
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Sourcing muslin?

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Tell us your requirements — thread count, finish, volume, application — and we will come back with costs, lead time, samples and provenance, usually within two working days.